Transpirenaica Chronicles: Using the Pyrenees – A Symphony of Iron, Rain, and Resilience

Within the early glow of a summer season morning in mid June, 12 individuals met at a filling station in Berlin. After filling our tanks and our bellies, we set out in the direction of Kassel, ultimate vacation spot: the twelfth version of Wheels & Waves in Biarritz, France. The crew astride their iron steeds, together with three Ducati’s, BMW’s, Triumphs, Honda’s, Royal Enfield, Moto Guzzi, and two sponsored Moto Morini’s.

Photograph: Cäthe Pfläging

The unifying issue for this random assortment of bikes: Craftwerk Berlin. Craftwerk is a group storage the place members can retailer their bikes, do common (supervised) upkeep, construct their customized bikes, and revel in a spread of motorbike associated occasions, together with ride-outs, workshops, and motoGP and documentary screenings. It consists of an occasion house that may be rented and doubles as a museum, in addition to a restaurant that can be open to the general public. If you end up in Berlin, this place comes extremely advisable. One of many founders and one member put their heads collectively and deliberate this journey to Biarritz and dubbed it “Transpirenaica”. Why? As a result of we might make tracks throughout the southern, Spanish Pyrenees from the Mediterranean coast to the Atlantic coast and again alongside the northern, French aspect. 

Photograph: Janna Strauss

The primary leg, Berlin-Kassel, was uneventful, apart from a rogue exhaust baffle that was McGyvered again into the exhaust with a paperclip. The route took us through the Bauhaus Museum in Dessau for a cultural espresso cease and thru the Harz Mountains Nationwide Park to stability out the Autobahn kilometers. In Kassel, Rudi and his bus had been ready for us. A strategically timed bus to expedite the transport of the 12 and their bikes to Perpignan. Two extra individuals arrived by practice, they’d be driving the help automobile. Whereas loading the bikes, the group loved a lavish filling station dinner on the pavement, earlier than the 14 launched into the bus and tried to get some shuteye. 18h later, we disembarked within the south of France and gave our bikes and baggage a once-over. One of many oldies required its tappet clearances proofed and head studs retorqued, making it the second “restore” inside 500km. Right here, one other Triumph plus rider from Vienna joined us.

From Perpignan we set out through the nation roads into the hills to have lunch at le Donjon de Pyrepertuse in Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse. After refueling the people, the curvy roads of the Pyrenees took us via de Gorges de Galamus, with its steep cliffs lower by the rivers deep down under and a highway hacked into the canyon partitions with dramatic overhangs, driving this slender highway ship the guts racing whereas dropping your jaw in awe. The distinction when going over Col d’Ares, throughout the border into Spain, was stark. Whereas the canyon is enclosed and slender, the views from the mountains are broad and much. We overnighted on the campsite Vall de Camprodon. Right here, we had been united with an extra 3 riders who made their very own means south with the help van, loaded with a Yamaha, Rieju, and a BMW. Having a help van would quickly show to be the neatest resolution of your entire journey. Earlier, we bought separated from the Guzzi that had ignition points, however made its solution to the campsite with a hand drawn paper map. It certain helps while you converse Spanish fluently. 

Photograph: Cäthe Pfläging

The subsequent morning we left for Montardit de Baix, through Castellar de n’Hug and Cadí-Moixeró Pure Park. We had divided the group into two smaller teams based mostly on driving abilities, which eased the driving, but difficult the logistics. Windy roads, up and down mountains had been a welcome change from the straight roads we normally experience round Berlin.

Photograph: Cäthe Pfläging

Subsequent morning, after a breakfast of toasted sandwiches, croissants, coffees, and orange juice, we set out for some extra mountain passes. Sadly, the Moto Guzzi stayed behind, once more. Although this time one thing had gone lacking… the ignition key. Looking out each pocket, trousers and jacket, twice, and after unloading and repacking the van, twice, and looking out via all of the tenting gear, the choice was made to load the Guzzi into the van and meet up with the remainder of the group. In the meantime, atop a mountain, one of many different riders was somewhat stunned to search out an unfamiliar key in a jacket pocket… Black leather-based jacket certainly do look alike when the solar has gone down.

The third night time we stayed in Boltaña. We caught a little bit little bit of rain that day, and we moped about Spanish summer season climate. Little did we all know what tomorrow would have in retailer for us. 

After a peaceable sleep, the skies had cleared up a bit, and we fortunately bought on our bikes for extra windy roads. We tracked via lovely gorges and over mountain passes with gorgeous views. The climate, nevertheless, was not on our aspect that day. We barely noticed the solar, and the clouds grew a deeper gray. The teams bought additional cut up up, and I used to be in a bunch of 4 monitoring north via the valleys in the direction of tenting Asolaze in Isaba. Because the rain bought extra intense, we missed a turnoff and rode all the best way to the tip of the valley in what had turn into a torrential downpour. On the aspect of the pavement, small rivers of murky yellowish brown water had began to move. Greater than as soon as we noticed the entrance wheel dip right into a puddle as much as the axle. On the finish of the highway we noticed an inn, we made it!
Besides, the inn was not Asolaze, it was the Linza Inn, one valley east of the place we wanted to be, separated by a 1500m tall mountain. So we needed to observe again half an hour, experience over the mountain cross, and north once more within the subsequent valley. The 20km that usually takes lower than half an hour, now took 45 min. The rain persevered and the insoles of my boots had been drenched, water had gotten in in all places. Rain gear is simply water proof till it isn’t. Fortunately all of us made it to Asolaze with none incidents or accidents, and heat tapas awaited us. One other sponsored bike, a BMW R18 ridden by the thoughts behind North of Berlin motorbike gear, joined us right here. 

No rides had been deliberate for the subsequent day, so everyone was free to resolve whether or not they would experience someplace, or calm down and dry their garments. A couple of made tracks into the mountains to the Canfranc lodge within the Aragon valley. The previous practice station, inbuilt 1928 on the border of France and Spain, stood deserted from 1970 till in early 2023, when it welcomed its first company as a lodge. An awesome cease for images or a espresso.
Half of the group tracked again to the gorge south of Ansó to shoot photograph and video for the assorted motorbike, gear, and helmet sponsors. Capturing video whereas driving the 2 Moto Morini and the 2 BMWs was enjoyable! Opposite to the day earlier than, it was a proper scorcher! Over 30 levels Celsius is snug on the seashore or manageable whereas driving, however standing within the vibrant solar in a full North of Berlin swimsuit or Rusty Stitches denim and leather-based gear is one other story.

On the finish of the day, everyone rode to the highest of the cross for a sundown and picnic dinner. The highway situations had been glorious, the curves thrilling, but fog obscured the view and dinner was postponed. The final rider joined the group right here, atop a shocking Ducati 999S, now totalling 18 individuals.

Photograph: Cäthe Pfläging

Photograph: Casper van der Ven

The subsequent morning we set out for our vacation spot: Biarritz! As a result of recurring ignition difficulties with the Guzzi, and a worn rear tyre on a Ducati, a small subgroup got down to San Sebastián to discover a motorbike store. Whereas the store modified the tyre, the boys bought their instruments out and had a go at adjusting the Guzzi’s factors and timing. They had been rewarded with a sundown on the seashore, a few beers, and the native specialty plates of meals to share, pintxos, or Basque tapas. Suppose deep fried potatoes (Krokettas), battered meatballs (Bolas de Carne), and omelets (pintxos de tortilla). Ádamo is legendary for theirs. Because it was the night time earlier than the summer season solstice, or San Juan Eguna, native artists carried out on a stage on the Padre Claret sq. subsequent to Zurriola seashore and your entire city danced the normal folks dances into the night time round an enormous hearth. The ambiance was concurrently ecstatic and relaxed, with out having that each one too acquainted cheesy vacationer vibe. The Guzzi remained in San Sebastián. This time not attributable to technical difficulties, however as a result of the rider gifted this motorbike to his father, who resides right here and has been contemplating getting again within the saddle. What an exquisite gesture!

Our base in Biarritz was at Tenting Erreka, a central level to benefit from the festivities round Wheels & Waves. We went to the flat observe races in San Sebastián, the live shows and vendor present on the Cité de l’Océan in Biarritz, and spent a day on the seashore to relaxation our our bodies after per week of driving all day, every single day. Sadly, the swell was taking a relaxation too, and browsing was out of the query. We made up for it by chopping ourselves a big slice of Gâteau Basque, a buttery, crumby textured, tender cake, the native specialty. 

Photograph: Janna Strauss

Photograph: Cäthe Pfläging

After two nights on the competition, having fun with the live shows, the bikes on show, the exhibits, the seller stalls, and assembly like minded individuals, we set out again in the direction of Berlin. By way of numerous mountain passes, together with Col de Cloze and Col du Tourmalet, we made our solution to Tenting d’Esplantats in Sarrancolin. Using on this a part of France offers routes to everybody’s liking. What an exquisite a part of the world! The native bakery offered us with croissants, espresso, and even flan, the caramel pudding, earlier than setting out the subsequent morning. Elements of the group had cut up off to make their very own tracks again, attributable to completely different schedules and obligations. 

Photograph: Cäthe Pfläging

After a protracted day within the saddle, over hills and thru lovely forests, we arrived at Tenting Area LaCanal, run by a Dutch couple. Although they weren’t fairly open for the season, they put us up for the night time and even cooked up an unlimited breakfast the subsequent morning. A stunning campsite on a hillside, with a improbable view down the valley. Sadly, I needed to retire the R80 and ship it dwelling with the van attributable to a blown seal and inadequate time to acquire components, restore it, and make it to Italy in time for a marriage. Equally, the Ducati 999 needed to retire as effectively. It had tried spreading its wings yesterday, when somebody took it for a high pace take a look at on the native freeway. It overtook me with a roar distinctive to a desmodromic twin with an open exhaust system. Shortly after I noticed a vibrant pink panel on the asphalt, in addition to two black tyre tracks, waving and crossing one another from the left lane, into the center lane, throughout the precise lane, and I feared to see motorbike and rider separated on the aspect of the highway. Because of talent and an enormous dose of luck, each rider and bike had been standing upright on the subsequent exit, although the Ducati seemed a little bit bare. The Italian Stallion had truly succeeded in shedding its wings. The wind had caught beneath the fairing and ripped each left and proper panels off, nearly throwing the rider off within the course of. Shaken and flabbergasted, all of us took a minute to depend our blessings.

Photograph: Casper van der Ven

The blown seal ended the journey a little bit early for yours actually, however because of the French and Italian public transport system, I truly made it to the marriage in Italy three days later. The remainder of the crew tracked again to Berlin through the French and Swiss Alps. Eager to see extra? Take a look at this video on Nils Homann’s channel (photograph & video credit score: Cäthe Pfläging, Patricia Strauss, Felix Schmidt)

Photograph: Cäthe Pfläging
Photograph: Cäthe Pfläging