Thanks for buying a set of CB350 rearsets for that customized scoot!
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This an in depth set of normal directions to put in in your CB350/CL350.
Please observe them so as, and permit for variances from yr to yr on these
bikes. Japanese are well-known for refined modifications from one mannequin yr to a different.
1. Take away passenger pegs from either side and droop muffler if bracket is
hooked up.
2. The brand new mounts are symmetrical in form and might be mounted to both
aspect accurately.
3. As soon as all rearset parts have been accounted for, you possibly can start
meeting.
4. With the mounts nonetheless OFF the bike, Place the shorter of the three/8-16 button
head bolts by way of the middle gap on the bigger finish of the mount.
5. Slide a lever over the ‘nostril’ of a hinge, and bolt the hinge to the surface
(single boss aspect) of the mount, utilizing the shorter of the three/8-16 buttons, and
a cut up washer.
6. Make sure that the top of the bolt doesn’t Protrude into the slot machined
into the hinge. It will impede free folding of the peg when put in.
7. You will have to guage by eye, the correct angle to set the peg so it folds up,
and perhaps again a little bit. 5-10 levels on estimate. The radius of the hinge
goes to the highest.
8. Now you possibly can place the mount on the passenger peg mounts with the
longer 3/8 bolt to the rear, and add the 6mm button head to the entrance.
Make sure that so as to add the nylon lock nut to the rear mount bolt.
Up to date 02/04/2014
9. As soon as once more, that is only for Mock-up functions. ADD LOCTITE Or an
equal thread locker to ALL threads when completed.
10. As soon as the mounts are on the Bike, you possibly can add the male foot peg. It can
slide in with some attainable drag. Than place the pin by way of the pegs and
add the washer and cotter key. Make sure that the peg swivels freely.
11.Toe peg is subsequent. Easy ¼-20 flathead stainless. This one you possibly can loctite
instantly on first set up.
Linkage
1. Shifter aspect is fairly straight ahead. The shorter linkage goes on the
shifter aspect. Nothing modifications when you use your current shifter turned
upwards, and drilled/tapped; or an aftermarket unit. ie… quick from the previous,
ebay…and many others. What’s vital is that the ultimate angle of the higher arm of the
new lever, carefully matches the angle of the splined shift arm you employ. In
different phrases, In case your consolation place has the lever arm pointing ahead
approx. 20 levels, you need the splined shift arm pointing ahead
approx. 20 levels.
2. Place a ball joint on each ends of the threaded rod (quick piece) with a jam
nut already put in on the rod. Screw the ball joint on about half means.
Depart the jam nuts free right now.
3. Discover a consolation zone with the lever and toe peg place. Make sure that it’s
good for upshifts, and downshifts. Now align the splined shifter arm
accordingly.
4. An excellent place for a drilled gap on the splined shifter(in case you are resuing
your inventory unit) is 1.875 -2.0 inches from the splined pivot. Too quick, and it
might be a little bit tougher to shift. Too lengthy, and it’ll enhance the space of
throw wanted for shifts. Chances are you’ll drill a pair holes if desired. It will
provide you with an choice for really feel.
5. Drill via with a 5/16 drill, or letter “O” or 8mm.
6. Slide ball joint stud via, and add jam nut. LOCTITE THIS THREAD WHEN
MOCK UP IS COMPLETED, BUT NOT THREADED ROD.
7. Brake aspect subsequent. With the mount, and lever bolted into place, place a ball
joint onto every finish of the threaded rod. Take away the brake arm from the
drum on the rear wheel. It will have to be rotated as much as vertical or close to
vertical. Some fashions have a notch on the splined stud coming from the
drum on the clamp pinch level. It will have to be floor off to rotate the
arm to vertical.
8. There’s a jam nut on the stud finish of the ball joints. On one finish, add the
coupler to the stud. Screw it on about 3/8 inch. Tighten the jam nut to it.
That is the top on the lever, the coupler acts as a spacer to offer clearance
across the shock. Add a bolt via the lever and safe that finish of the
linkage.
9. The opposite finish will get hooked up to the brake arm with the provided ball joint
and nut.
10.Double verify journey on the brake aspect for engagement, and it’s possible you’ll want
to regulate linkage to get sufficient stopping energy. Or change the angle of
the arm.
11.Presently, there isn’t a provision for the brake gentle swap, and it’s possible you’ll
want to regulate the angle of the drum arm on the rear wheel as nicely, for a
extra comfy lever angle.
