The editor will get to trip a number of the highest roads on the planet…

Words & images: NIGEL PATERSON


I noticed the large Tata truck about the identical second I noticed Dean swerving to keep away from the 10-ton cellular Bollywood show. A head-on collision would have been disastrous, however Dean deftly prevented tragedy with some skilful using.

I used to be behind Dean on the time and I did that sharp consumption of breath individuals do after they see catastrophe unfolding earlier than them however are unable to do something about it, but it turned out OK. We hadn’t but accomplished 100km of using in India, however I’d seen one of many closest calls in years.

We have been in India to trip the roof of the world, a number of the highest mountain passes which exist — a bunch of all of them effectively over 5000m — within the Himalayas, using Himalayans.

Moto Himalaya, which is part of Royal Enfield, had invited three Aussie bike journos (Dean Mellor, AMCN, Stuart Woodbury, Australian Motorcyclist, and myself, Australian Street Rider) to hitch a tour which was in any other case stuffed with a gaggle of Indonesian-paying clients.

Moto Himalaya organises the bikes (it should rent them from native operators — non-employees of Royal Enfield will not be allowed to trip company-owned bikes within the area as a part of a cope with native rent firms), help autos, lodging, guides, a physician and the route. All we needed to do was get match, pack correctly and comply with the chief.


The Himalayan Mountains stretch a lot additional than these in Nepal and Tibet, from Afghanistan within the north-west to China within the south-east. They kind an enormous arc, hundreds of kilometres lengthy, pushing up towards the sky as a pair of tectonic plates collide, pushed by forces deep underground. They proceed to rise, a few centimetres per yr.

Ladakh, the a part of India the place we have been using, has so many mountains that I by no means as soon as noticed the clichéd view of the only mountain rising from the plain — as a result of there are not any plains. You begin excessive and go greater. Attempt Mount Fuji in Japan, Kilimanjaro in Tanzania and even Milford Sound in New Zealand should you’re after that form of expertise.

Within the Himalayas, not less than the north-eastern Indian part we rode, it’s countless mountains accessed by switchback-filled twisty bitumen, rocky unsealed surfaces, eroded water crossings and even some sandy sections. Round each nook is one other spectacular sight. Or washed-away part of street. Or a boulder, dumped on the street by a landslide. Or a diversion as a result of the street has slid away. Or a Tata truck, raging river, unmarked roadworks and, in a single case, a gap within the street which was troublesome to see and not less than a metre deep (once I bought there one in every of our guides was directing us round it).

It’s enormous, distant, rugged and laborious on individuals and equipment. And an unbelievable place to trip.

From the road to Khardung La.
From the street to Khardung La.


Royal Enfield developed its Himalayan as an journey bike appropriate for using the Himalayas, and town within the area, Leh Ladakh, is affected by locations which is able to rent you one and tour firms that may take you on a guided tour aboard one.

If you have a look at the situations, the price and take into account what individuals wish to obtain throughout their tour of the Himalayas, the Himalayan wins hands-down — low cost, succesful and out there.

Sure, you may rent BMW and KTM journey bikes if you wish to, however with Indian import duties they’re cripplingly costly, whereas a Himalayan could be very low cost — and fixable by the locals if one thing goes improper. And whereas a European journey bike is commonly extra enjoyable to trip, I wasn’t there to go laborious, I used to be there for the roads, the views, the meals and the expertise, so I used to be very happy to be using a Himalayan.

Being on a tour meant we may pack the bike gentle. A change of garments for the tip of the day (in case the bags truck is delayed). Moist climate gear, simply in case. Water (they offer you a water bottle, however take a hydration pack). I added a digital camera bag however Moto Himalaya additionally has its “Content material Crew” alongside, a bunch of younger guys taking pictures images and video for the contributors and promotion, so most individuals can merely take private photographs with their cellphone and add Moto Himalaya’s content material to indicate off to pals after they get house.


We flew into Leh, one of many highest everlasting massive settlements on the planet at 3500m, through New Delhi. Attending to New Delhi is a 14-hour flight out of Sydney, New Delhi to Leh simply an hour or so. Leh is a military base and vacationer city and it’s solely actually open for the warner months of the yr, and you’ll see why wanting outdoors your resort room’s window: snow-capped mountains, not too distant, in mid-summer. In winter the entire space might be lined in 5m of snow.

We, nevertheless, skilled unseasonably heat climate; the 10-foot-wide room radiator wasn’t wanted, however air-conditioning would have been welcomed. Not like New Delhi although, it wasn’t humid, nor was it as insanely busy as India’s capital.

Jet lag, warmth, native packs of canine, early-morning calls to prayer and garbage vehicles taking part in music all mixed to frustrate Aussies making an attempt to sleep.

Hills on the edge of Leh.
Hills on the sting of Leh.


The air is skinny at 3500m, a lot in order that Moto Himalaya doesn’t trip for the primary 24 hours or so after its contributors arrive, and the primary day of using is a very simple 30km trip out of city to offer individuals an opportunity to get used to the bikes, for the crew to see how the purchasers trip… and for me to observe one of many guys look to go across the improper aspect of a military truck. Unsure what possessed him to suppose that was a good suggestion…

The altitude will get to individuals; they’ll battle to breathe and their blood oxygen ranges will drop precipitously. As an asthmatic I used to be involved, however wasn’t actually affected greater than anybody else. A few of the much less match and people who smoke would battle at greater altitudes. However even should you’re wholesome, you’ll tire quick at excessive altitude.

So we spend the primary day wanting across the city, testing out our respiration as we purchased trinkets, T-shirts and pashmina for household and pals. Pashmina is the high quality goat wool made at excessive altitudes — smooth, luxurious and costly. I gave the pashmina a miss however indulged within the fantastic Indian meals — primarily vegetarian, though a lot of the Himalayas is near China and the influences on the delicacies are there to be seen. Curries, tandoori, one of the best naan bread you’ve ever tasted… it seems like a cliché of an Indian restaurant, nevertheless it’s lighter, tastier and doubtless higher for you than the meat-laden dishes we purchase in Australia. Hen and mutton (aged sheep) can be found typically.


I needed to ask Aakash, our tour chief, who Bro was. Bro was encouraging me to drive safely, with quite a few security messages on indicators alongside each street we rode, like how the three risks have been pace, alcohol and overloading. The roads are too thrilling for fatigue to be as a lot of a problem, not like on the lengthy, boring, straight highways of Australia.

“Border Roads Organisation”, Aakash informed me. “It’s managed by the military and the explanation there are any roads right here in any respect,” he continued. “All of the roads we rode are there so the military can mobilise in case of a border battle.”

Another effort encouraging people to drive carefully.
One other effort encouraging individuals to drive rigorously.

India has had border scuffles with Pakistan and China within the area and there’s a enormous military presence within the areas we trip. One convoy of vehicles going the opposite approach numbered 30 (I’d seen them developing the switchbacks down the hill, so determined to do a depend). Massive vehicles, too, not articulated semis, they received’t get by. These have been most likely 10-ton-capacity vehicles belching heaps of black diesel smoke.

Street surfaces have been an actual combine: a number of the roads are higher than winding nation roads in NSW, though there’s no scarcity of unmarked broken-up sections, usually attributable to creeks operating throughout the street.

Some sections are one lane, so that you’ll end up sitting on the acute fringe of the bitumen as vehicles and vehicles whistle by with barely inches of clearance. I went into the gravel intentionally a couple of instances, preferring the dust to the potential of a head-on.


It seems white-water rafting is fashionable in Leh, with vacationers from all around the world flying in to trip the snowmelt downstream on massive inflatables. Many of the boats have been on the roofs of 4WDs after we arrived at a restaurant nestled within the confluence, which is a flowery phrase for the place two rivers be part of.

This was our shakedown trip, a fast strop round city to see how we might all go. I used to be shocked at how a few of our Indonesian pals would trip on the improper aspect of the street and too shut to one another.

Later within the day we might catch taxis to the bottom of Shanti Stupa (a Buddhist construction containing relics and sometimes stays of monks and used as an space for meditation) with panoramic views of the world. It’s nonetheless a good stroll to the highest at 3600m, so there was multiple very drained rider by the tip of the day.

The views throughout Leh are spectacular, with the previous palace seen and mountains in each course.


I’ve the T-shirt saying I went to the best street on the planet, Khardung La. It’s not, however the myriad T-shirt sellers in Leh need you to imagine it’s, and joked with me about not promoting me the shirt if I hadn’t been there…

Prayer flags surround many buildings in the mountains.
Prayer flags encompass many buildings within the mountains.

Years in the past it gained a repute as the best navigable street, however improved expertise (primarily GPS) and new roads being opened up means it’s not even within the prime 10 today — however these excessive passes aren’t separated by a lot, so it’s nonetheless very, very excessive… practically triple Charlotte’s Go, formally Australia’s highest navigable street.

The air is skinny up right here, people. Strolling takes effort. Climbing the steps to get a greater view is exhausting. However the trip there may be excellent. Khardung La’s repute has introduced vacationers in enormous numbers and the problem of reaching the highest of the go is not the journey it as soon as was, with a sealed floor all the best way — nevertheless it’s a slender sealed street, and the place I assumed we’d misplaced Dean.

Mendacity simply 40km from Leh, the street to Khardung La is steep, winding and really slender. We have been simply into the primary actually twisty part of the street, nevertheless it’s thrilling all the best way to the highest. On the opposite aspect of the go the street usually turns to gravel in sections; there are literally thousands of sections of damaged or lacking bitumen and, relying on the time of yr you go to, quite a few creek crossings.

And vacationer buses.

I can’t get my head round why you’d wish to tour Ladakh by bus. Away from the higher bitumen — which most likely made up about 15 per cent of our using — the buses are very sluggish. There are such a lot of obstacles, different autos, wash-outs, potholes and different issues to keep away from, mixed with horrible suspension and an absence of energy, that it made me suppose that using one can be like some form of weird punishment for dangerous issues accomplished in a earlier life. We might normally sail by, standing on footpegs and disappearing into the gap… regardless of the actual fact we’d have solely been doing 60 or 70km/h. In lots of sections I doubt if the buses have been doing 30, and it seemed so uncomfortable for the individuals inside.

Even the Indian vacationers using their very own Royal Enfield Bullets — older designs primarily aimed toward street utilization — seemed extra snug, and that’s saying one thing. Seeing {couples} on overloaded Bullets wasn’t unusual; they might trip alongside fairly slowly, most likely averaging half the pace we may do on the Himalayans.


There’s extra to worldwide touring than using, after all, and if you’re in distant areas of the world, don’t count on five-star. Count on hundreds of thousands of stars, solely hidden by the skinny material of your tent.

Though quite a few nights of a Moto Himalayan tour are spent in a superb resort in Leh, outdoors of town, lodging is rustic, to say the least. A few nights are spent glamping (glamorous tenting), the place a big tent is erected over a concrete slab. Inside is an enormous mattress, chairs, a rest room and a few technique to wash… if there’s scorching water.

Generally there’s operating scorching water, typically there’s not, so one of many workers will drop off an enormous bucket of actually scorching water. Combine it with some chilly then use the assorted buckets to tip it over your self, cleaning soap up and rinse.

I really like an extended, scorching bathe after a day of journey using within the mud as a lot as anybody, however that’s not all the time attainable within the Himalayas and you recognize what? Possibly that retains out a number of the vacationers, and that’s a superb factor.

The tents have been higher than the Tso Kar Eco Resort although. Positive, there have been rooms, however the beds have been laborious, the sheets lacking, the bogs terrible and the facility intermittent. “It’s one of the best out there on the town,” Aakash informed me.

One of the 'glamping' tents, complete with its own bathroom.
One of many ‘glamping’ tents, full with its personal rest room.

The shortage of facilities bought to our crew a couple of days in, with a number of the Indonesians feeling homesick as a result of they have been struggling altitude illness, couldn’t contact their households, have been discovering the off-road sections a bit powerful and missed the meals from house.

Fortunately, Aakash subtle the state of affairs with a satellite tv for pc cellphone and a few reassurance we have been previous the worst of the off-road situations and the way oxygen would assist the altitude illness. With the power to let their households know they have been OK, and a few oxygen, the tour may proceed.

Whereas the lodging was usually rustic, the meals was fairly wonderful. Even within the back-blocks of nowhere, the curries, naan and rice dishes would come out, stuffed with refined flavours. A lot of the meals is predicated round sauces and spices and was totally pleasant.

The closest I got here to a abdomen upset was requiring a go to to the smallest room in the home with out a lot discover, and that was after consuming a meat dish in Leh… fortunately there have been no additional issues, and I don’t suppose anybody else in our group had a dose of the dreaded Delhi Stomach.

Half two subsequent concern…